Restaurant closures last month diverted the limelight away from their newly launched counterparts. We bid farewell to two Melbourne icons and a one-year old city venue that repeatedly received shining reviews, including from us. On the opening front, Sun Kitchen on Albert Park Lake is a reminder that Chinese immigrants have been nailing fine dining and service in Australia for as long as the Europeans, while three Japanese venues have joined the scene including a refined coffee and traditional snack house, a kitschy gyoza hot spot and the city’s first “sushi boat” (like sushi train, but it floats) place.
This Cantonese and Sichuan fine diner is the only place in Melbourne where you can slurp traditional hot pot and cool down just by looking at the waterfront view of Albert Park Lake. The a la carte menu has specialties like hot and sour noodles made from mung beans, while the wine selection is as auspicious as it is outrageous, featuring 888 bottles valued at $1.5 million.
Must order: sizzling fish fillet in hot chilli oil
9 Aquatic Drive, Albert Park, 9682 5566
Following delays this bayside Mediterranean restaurant, wine bar and wine store finally welcomed its first customers in April. The best seats are on the banquette looking through to the ocean. It’s no surprise that seafood rules the European menu.
Must order: brodetto di pesce prawn broth with scampi, king prawns, clams, mussels, scallops and squid
1 Melrose Street, Sandringham
A partnership between ex-Lady Carolina head chef Blair Williams and Stay Gold band room has seen a European-meets-South American restaurant open at the front of the former. The menu is mostly vegetarian and vegan, but there’s still a focus on cooking with fire.
Must order: northside souvas on the late-night menu (from 10pm)
133 Sydney Road, Brunswick
You’ve heard of sushi train, now allow us to introduce you to sushi boat. From the White Mojo team comes this stream of sushi at St Collins Lane. Floating plates are $3.80 and there’s a menu of interesting larger dishes, too.
Must order: tuna rack (DIY sushi of dry aged tuna, seaweed & sushi rice)
Lvl 2, 260 Collins Street, Melbourne, 9663 8000
279
This small, minimalist Japanese cafe specialises in musubi and specialty coffee. Musubi, also known as onigiri, is seaweed-wrapped rice shaped into a rectangle, triangle or ball with ingredients in the middle. Miso and mochinuts (Japanese doughnuts) are also available.
Must order: ocha-zuke, cured mackerel musubi in green tea soup
279 Victoria Street, West Melbourne
Gyoza is the signature dish here, fried until a crisp layer binds either 10 or 20 pieces together, with the option of melted cheese on top. Grab a beer from the Japanese vending machine and finish with soft serve. Look for the black-and-white mural.
Must order: spicy kimchi miso pork gyoza
287 Wellington Street, Collingwood
Say goodbye to…
– George Calombaris’ Press Club will close on June 29, giving way to a “phase of reinvention”.
– At the time of writing, the current owners of 22-year-old Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder have been locked out of the premises after failing to pay rent, suppliers and staff.
– Korean restaurant Shik has shut after a year in operation, with owner Peter Jo citing difficulty defining his food as the culprit.