South Melbourne suburb guide: food, history and unbeatable city-fringe living

Its epic food market inspires jealousy across the greater metropolis, and it’s home to Melbourne’s most beautiful town hall, a Victorian fantasy channelling the Second French Empire that wouldn’t be out of place in a BBC period drama.

Really, the only handbrake on South Melbourne’s greatness is its inauspicious CBD entrance across the ugly snarl of City Road.

Despite that concrete handicap, it’s difficult to feel sorry for a ‘burb that sits on the city cusp but still delivers all the village feels from the colonial era, when a three-kilometre journey was more arduous than today’s 15-minute air-conditioned tram ride.

The old and the new coexist comfortably around these parts. It’s the land of the corner pub, where historic old boozers like O’Connell’s, dating from 1876, and Lamaro’s, which poured its first beer in the 1850s, have been nipped and tucked into modern-day hangouts for the area’s upwardly mobile clientele.

Then there are its restaurants. Aegli might just be months old, but it fits the area like a blissful memory of its Greek heyday, when the post-World War II migrant influx brought European culture and traditions to the ‘hood.

Chef Ioannis Kasidokostas uses the Greek classics as a springboard into modern dining, with dishes like baked anthotyros cheese with sour cherries and capers, and magiritsa, a rugged mushroom soup pimped with Greek truffles. His aniseed liqueur-spiked margarita is another revelation.

“South Melbourne is a very cultural suburb,” Kasidokostas says. “I visit the market often, and you see the people there searching for the sort of premium produce that you don’t get at other markets. There is an interest in quality that turns it into a destination.”

He might have suppliers delivering produce to his kitchen, but Kasidokostas can’t resist his own regular jaunts around the market.

“A few lovely cumquats, a few spicy fresh radishes or little chat potatoes … something always makes its way back with me.”

My local

with Warwick Gardiner from Jellis Craig

Market insight 

South Melbourne blends old-world charm with urban sophistication. Its grand Victorian homes, leafy streets, and balance of heritage and modern architecture make it timeless yet contemporary. The suburb excels in all Port Phillip essentials – city proximity, transport, open spaces, a cafe and foodie culture, and an effortlessly vibrant community spirit.

Best eats 

Aegli is a superb new addition to South Melbourne’s dining scene – beautiful, refined Greek food with warm hospitality. Weekend rituals include coffee from Market Lane or breakfast at Juniper, followed by afternoon drinks at Le Pont or Belotta for something special.

Best street 

Howe Crescent is a standout address with its grand, ornate residences and rows of historically significant homes. It enjoys prime access to all South Melbourne has to offer, while Albert Park village is just an easy stroll away, making it both elegant and perfectly positioned.

Homes for sale in South Melbourne

Expressions of Interest - Closes 27 October, 2pm

115 Eastern Road, South Melbourne VIC 3205

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It’s come a long way since its days as part of the historic Eastern Road School. Now a magnificent family home bursting with artistic character and charm, this beguiling city-edge haven has a glorious garden aspect and a private, north-facing courtyard. An attic offers potential for an additional living area or studio, or simply additional storage.

Expressions Of Interest Close Tues 11 Nov at 12pm

236 Ferrars Street, South Melbourne VIC 3205

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This double fronted Hawthorn brick Victorian close to the market and light rail has been updated to the highest modern specs, including a wood-lined sauna room to complement a heated plunge pool with a backdrop of reclaimed timber from the old Port Melbourne pier. There’s also a self-contained studio with a kitchenette above the garage, accessed separately via the rear