Travel: Where to stay, eat and play in Praiano, off the Amalfi Coast

We don’t really want to tell you about Praiano in Italy, but we will. Snug between big-ticket Positano and atmospheric Amalfi on that sweeping, majestic coastline, Praiano nuzzles into the hillside like a magnificent secret. There, now you know.

A day

Don’t do anything else if you’re day-tripping to Praiano – sit on the gorgeous pebble beach at Marina di Praia and watch the sun dapple the azure water. Maybe a simple, rustic seafood pasta at one of the three beachfront restaurants, maybe a short stroll along the seafront’s gorgeous stone carved path to finish at Il Pirata for a crisp Aperol spritz as the sun sets and the boats skip their way back home.

A weekend

Base yourself in the middle of town, between the lofty peaks and the sea, and walk. There are a handful of excellent restaurants up here to fuel you as you ascend to the highest points of the village. Don’t miss the NaturArte Project – a series of mosaics and sculptures by local artists that adorn the houses that cling to the hillside turning the town into the open-air art gallery. Praiano’s churches are worth more than a passing glance. The 11th century San Giovanni Battista offers beautiful mosaics inside and an eye-popping view. The vista from the broad terrace of lofty San Luca Evangelista to the endless blue will make you weep.

If you want a memorable Saturday night, the Africana nightclub, carved into a cave a stroll from the marina, has plenty of fans. Rumour has it Jackie Kennedy and the jet set used to arrive here by speed boat from Capri.

A week

Divide your seven days by land and sea. The best, most fun and probably most hair-raising way is to hop a Sita bus and marvel as the driver hurls the full-size coach around the tight bends and narrow stone tunnels between towns. Wander Amalfi and its sublime Duomo di Sant Andrea to soothe your jangled nerves or the serene heights of Ravello before your return trip.

Both Vesuvius and Pompeii are within easy reach of Praiano, too. Day tours take about eight hours.

Numerous boat companies also offer skippered or self-driving/sailing packages to get you to Capri.

Where to Stay \ Anywhere that has a view and that means most places. The popular Hotel Pellegrino has a warm family vibe. At Marina de Praia there are numerous apartments for rent.

Getting There \ Naples is the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Most of the large airlines fly to Rome daily and have connecting flights. From Naples, bus or train to Sorrento then take a Sita bus to Praiano. Private car transfers will take you door-to-door.

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